![]() ![]() When your RV appliances aren’t working, it’s not always right to assume the appliance itself is broken. Finding out why your refrigerator won’t stay cold or your microwave won’t heat is crucial for having a happy trip. Check it out in this video.Cruising the open road in your rig can give you a sense of freedom, but when your necessary appliances stop working, that freedom can be tainted by the hassle of fixing them. The installation was pretty straight forward. I installed one in my RV wired for 30 amp service. There are automatic transfer switches pre-wired for this purpose like this one from Go Power. So making the connection there eliminates the need for a sub-panel. Your shore power cable typically goes directly into a transfer switch. One option is to wire the charger AC power input to the shore power side of an automatic transfer switch. Wiring your converter/charger directly to the shore power inputs will guarantee that it will only charge your batteries when on shore power. OPTION #3 – Wire Your Battery Charger or Converter/Charger to Run Only On Shore Power Here’s are some other materials and tools I use for electrical wiring. I get the multi-pack and now use them for everything. They are a little more expensive than standard twist connectors, but they are worth it. They are strong, accommodate multiple gauge wire (up to #12 AWG), and completely reusable. Wago Wire Connectors : These are my favorite type of wire connectors. Hot glue was used to attach a single DIN rail to the bottom of the enclosure before attaching the contactor to it. You’ll need an electronically controlled switch called a contactor that will control power to the charger (or converter/charger).Ħ” DIN Rail Kit : The contactor is designed to mount on DIN rails like these. The best approach is to automate the process.Īdding a relay to switch off your converter/charger automatically is an inexpensive and effective way to ensure your battery charger and inverter are never on at the same time. This can be done manually if your charger is on its own circuit breaker, but you can’t forget to do it. You will have to switch off your converter/charger each time you switch over to inverter power as it will also be powered by your inverter. It’s like being on shore power, but you still have to manage your power usage to stay within the capabilities of your inverter and battery bank.ĮXAMPLE: Don’t turn on your microwave or air conditioner unless your battery bank and power inverter can handle it. With this approach, you connect your inverter directly to your main AC electrical line and power all of your AC circuits. So wouldn’t it be great if everything worked as if you were on shore power? OPTION #2 – Install a Relay to Automatically Disconnect the Battery Charger The rest of your AC equipment or receptacles will NOT have power and you’ll feel like you’re camping off-the-grid. Your access to AC power off-the-grid is limited to the new outlets you install. While this is a common approach, it’s not optimal. If you need multiple inverter-only circuits, a small electrical panel can be installed to distribute the AC power. It’s like running an extension cord from your inverter inside your RV (which is also an option). You’ll simply extending the inverter AC output to a handful of new outlets inside your RV which will only be powered from the inverter. Keeping your inverter and associated electrical outlets completely separate from the rest of your RV’s electrical system will eliminate the possibility of inadvertently charging your batteries. OPTION #1 – Install a Dedicated AC Circuit For Your Inverter In order to avoid this problem of the battery recharging itself, we need to prevent the charger (or converter/charger in my case) from running while the inverter is also on. Components of my off-grid electrical setup (not including solar) ![]()
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